frownie brownie

on hiatus

2010-06-28T09:12:00.003-04:00

dear readers, i'm going into hibernation for a while. catch you later!

simple. perfect.

2010-05-23T11:50:00.000-04:00

Dear readers, I can't believe I've been away so long. But I'm back, with a new, fully functioning laptop (!) and plenty of recipes to share with you...starting with one of my favorites, roast chicken.

A year or two ago, I had never cooked a whole chicken. I've always liked to bake, but didn't really get into cooking until I moved into my current apartment a couple of years ago. Sure, I cooked because I had to eat, but my meat consumption was limited to pre-cut salmon fillets and skinless-boneless chicken breasts. Basically, I wanted my meat as un-scary and un-animal-like as possible. (OCD tendencies against mess in general. I'm working on it.) But I've since mended my ways--and fortunately, because a whole roasted chicken is about the easiest, cheapest and most delicious "homestyle" meal you can cook. It's juicy, crispy, flavorful--nothing like those cottony dry chicken breasts I used to live on. Three secrets: A hot oven, plenty of kosher salt and an organic or antibiotic-free bird. Simple. Perfect. Roast chicken!

Herb-Roasted Chicken

1 3-4 lb. chicken
2 Tbs. fresh herbs
2 Tbs. olive oil
Lemon
Garlic*
Kosher salt
Pepper

Heat oven to 450 degrees F. Place the chicken in a roasting pan, pat dry with paper towels and generously sprinkle inside and out with salt and pepper. Stuff lemon wedges and smashed garlic cloves inside the cavity (my chicken was on the small side so I used half a lemon and 3 cloves garlic). In small bowl, mix herbs (I used fresh parsley and thyme), olive oil, salt and pepper until blended. Rub herb mixture all over the chicken. Roast chicken about 1 hour, or until skin is bronzed and crispy and leg juices run clear. Transfer chicken to a plate or cutting board for carving. Feel smugly accomplished.

Serves 3 hungry souls.

*When garlic is cooked with something acidic, like lemons, it undergoes a chemical reaction that makes it turn blue. Don't freak out. It looks crazy but is perfectly safe and tastes fine.

On the side: Risotto with peas and asparagus.

what i eat when i eat alone

2010-03-16T16:10:00.002-04:00

My Jon is is in the middle of a 2-week family vacation in Italy. Me? Well, I'm surviving. Barely. Take note of recent meals:

1. One Ellio's frozen individual cheese pizza, topped with sauteed peppers and mushrooms, eaten while watching something on the CW.

2. Repeat.

3. Repeat.

4. Chinese food takeout, shared with sister.

5. Grilled cheese sandwich.

6. Mashed-up avocado on toast. (I'm actually not ashamed of this one. It's good!)

7. Tortilla chips and salsa. And sour cream. Sigh.

a peace offering

2010-03-05T20:28:00.001-05:00

I'm a bad blogger.

You see, I'd like to post more frequently, but my incredibly slow laptop is getting in the way. And for some unknown reason, the "h" key popped off about a year ago. Lately it's stopped working all together. You'd be surprised how one little, unassuming letter (well, the absence of one) can ruin everything. I've been reduced to copy-and-pasting each "h" individually, or surreptitiously writing my posts at work when my boss isn't looking and pasting them in later. It's all very Harriet the Spy, if Harriet were a cranky 24-year-old with the urge to bake. I haven't felt this sneaky since I was seven and stored Baby-Sitters Club books under my mattress to devour after lights-out. (Seriously.)

Will you forgive me? And will you accept these Meyer lemon tea cakes as a peace offering? They're soft and sweet and light, and go down mighty easily. Until you realize somebody's eaten half the batch. (But don't be like me.)

Meyer Lemon Tea Cakes
adapted from Food Network magazine

For the cakes:
1 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted
1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1 cup granulated sugar
1 to 2 Tbs. grated lemon zest (Meyer or regular)
2 large eggs
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2/3 cup milk or plain yogurt
1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda (only if using yogurt instead of milk)
1/2 tsp. salt

For the glaze:
1 cup confectioners' sugar
2 to 3 Tbs. lemon juice
1 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted

Heat oven to 350 degrees F. Grease and flour a 12-cup muffin tin.

In bowl, combine the granulated sugar and lemon zest. Rub the mixture together with your fingers until sugar is moist and fragrant. Whisk in the eggs one at a time, then add the olive oil and milk. Whisk until blended.

Whisk 1 cup flour, the baking powder, baking powder (if using) and salt in a small bowl. Gradually stir the flour mixture into the milk mixture until just combined.

Pour the batter into the prepared muffin tin. Bake until the cakes just begin to pull away from the sides of the pan and spring back when lightly touched, 20 to 25 minutes. Cool in the pan 10 minutes, then loosen the sides with a small knife and invert the cakes onto a rack.

Meanwhile, prepare the glaze: Whisk the confectioners' sugar, lemon juice and butter until smooth, adding more sugar or lemon juice to achieve the desired consistency. Drizzle over the warm cakes, or dip the tops of the cakes directly in glaze.

invite me over

2010-02-08T20:55:00.006-05:00

Have you ever had banh mi? It's a delicious Vietnamese sandwich made with some combination of ground pork, grilled pork, pate, pickled vegetables, cilantro, chili peppers, sriracha hot sauce and mayonnaise on a baguette, and it's officially my favorite food that doesn't come out of my mother's kitchen.

I used to think banh mi was something you could only get at a restaurant, like chocolate lava cake and risotto (now two of my favorite things to cook). That all changed with the January issue of Bon Appetit. All I can say is...make this now. And then invite me over for dinner.

Pork Meatball Banh Mi
adapted from Bon Appetit, January 2010

Chili mayo:
1/2 cup mayonnaise
2 green onions, finely chopped
1 Tbs. hot chili sauce, like sriracha

Pickled vegetables:
3 carrots, cut into matchsticks
2 cucumbers, cut into matchsticks
1/4 cup unseasoned rice vinegar
3 Tbs. sugar
1 tsp. kosher salt

Meatballs:
1 lb. ground pork
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh basil
4 garlic cloves, minced
3 green onions, finely chopped
1 Tbs. fish sauce
1 Tbs. hot chili sauce, like sriracha
1 Tbs. sugar
2 tsp. cornstarch
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp. kosher salt

Sandwiches:
4 10-inch individual baguettes or 4 10-inch-long pieces of baguette
Cilantro

Chili mayo: Stir all ingredients in small bowl. Season with salt. Cover and chill.

Pickled vegetables: Toss all ingredients in medium bowl; set aside.

Meatballs: Mix all ingredients in large bowl. Using moistened hands, roll meat mixture into 1-inch meatballs, about 1 scant Tbs. each. Saute meatballs in oil until brown and cooked through, turning often and lowering heat if browning too quickly, about 15 min.

Sandwiches: In medium bowl, toss carrots, cucumbers, rice vinegar, sugar and salt; set aside. Cut each baguette or baguette pieces horizontally in half. Pull out excess squishy bread. Spread with chili mayo. Arrange cilantro, meatballs and pickled vegetables on bread. Devour.

body and soul

2010-01-23T23:52:00.007-05:00

Friends, how are you feeling? Frankly, I've been a little blue. Winter just isn't my season. And after years of being the kind of person who could sleep through just about anything (including thunderstorms, construction sites and Batman Begins--in the theater), I've somehow become someone who wakes up multiple times in the middle of the night, grinding her teeth all the while. I'm tired. If ever there were a time for comfort food, it's now.

This beef stew is just a simplified Beef Bourguignon, that delicious but labor-intensive classic French dish. Start with a hunk of beef chuck (I know it's kind of horrifying how fatty it is, but it's so tender. And you can strain off the fat later), add some vegetables and wine and stick it in the oven for a couple hours, and you'll have the perfect dinner to warm body and soul.

Beef stew

1 beef chuck roast, about 2-1/2 lbs., cut into 1- to 2-inch pieces
1 large or 2 small onions, chopped
4 carrots, cut diagonally into 1- to 2-inch pieces
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 Tbs. tomato paste
2 sprigs rosemary
about 3/4 bottle dry red wine
1 can chicken or beef broth

1 onion, cut into 1-inch pieces
about 12 cremini or white button mushrooms, quartered
2 Tbs. all-purpose flour

chopped flat-leaf parsley
good baguette

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees F.

Season the beef cubes generously with salt and pepper. Pour 2 Tbs. vegetable or olive oil in a Dutch oven. Brown the beef over medium-high heat in 2 or 3 batches, about 5 min. per batch (beef will not be cooked through). Remove the beef to a plate; set aside.

Add onions and carrots to the Dutch oven; add a little more oil if necessary. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until browned, about 8 min. Add the garlic and tomato paste; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 sec.

Add the rosemary and beef (with any juices that may have collected on the plate). Pour in the broth and enough wine to barely cover the beef. Bring to a boil, using a wooden spoon to scrape up all the browned bits on the bottom of the pot (this is called fond and carries lots of flavor). Cover and place in the oven for 1-1/2 to 2 hours.

Meanwhile, saute the large-diced onion and quartered mushrooms in 2 Tbs. olive oil until browned and tender, about 8 min. Stir in 2 Tbs. flour. Remove stew from oven, place on a stovetop burner over medium-low heat and stir in the mushroom mixture. Let simmer 30 min. If you'd like a thicker broth, mix 2 Tbs. softened butter with 2 Tbs. flour and stir into the stew; let simmer uncovered 15 min. more.

Sprinkle with parsley and serve with a nice baguette to soak up all the wine-y juices.

happy new year!

2010-01-01T19:07:00.004-05:00

In the spirit of looking forward to new and wonderful things, here are a couple of items we've got kicking around our kitchen:

Preserved lemons, a recipe adapted from Preserved by Nick Sandler and Johnny Acton. Lemon wedges are packed in kosher salt and lemon juice, along with some black peppercorns, bay leaves and cloves.

Limoncello, adapted from Giada De Laurentiis. It's just lemon peel soaking in a bottle of vodka, and we'll add a sugar syrup later.

Both were made from these Meyer lemons, and both should be ready in about a month.

Here's to a peaceful, fulfilling and delicious new year.

a ray of sunlight

2009-12-21T20:45:00.005-05:00

Tonight, after my 90-minute commute, a mildly traumatic trip to CVS and a trek through the rapidly graying snow, i came home to a package from my aunt Julie.

Meyer lemons from her tree in sunny Cali-foh-ni-ah! They just look like Christmas, don't they? What a ray of sunlight on this cold and gloomy day. Meyer lemons are uncommon and expensive on the East Coast, so I've never bought them before. Can't wait to use them all up!

love, and lava cake

2009-12-17T19:57:00.004-05:00

Tell me about your family. I don't just mean mom-dad-2 kids-and-a-dog family (which I do have, and how lovely it is). I mean extended family, modern family. The people you choose. The people who choose you.

This is mine.

It was born over six (six!) years ago in a third-floor dorm room in the little town of Amherst, MA.
It's the kind of family where weirdness is accepted. Actually, it's encouraged. (See picture above.)
It's the kind of family that's withstood 3,000-plus-mile distances, boyfriends, breakups, travel, illness, countless job changes...and come out no worse for wear.

If you've got family like this, make them these cakes. Because that's what family's about: love, and lava cake.

Chocolate lava cakes
adapted from Unilever

6 Tbs. butter
3 oz. bittersweet chocolate, cut into pieces
1/2 cup granulated sugar
6 Tbs. all-purpose flour
Pinch salt
2 large eggs
2 large egg yolks
1/4 tsp. vanilla extract

Grease 4 (4-oz.) ramekins.

In medium bowl, microwave butter with chocolate until melted, about 45 seconds. Beat in sugar, flour and salt with wire whisk until blended. Beat in eggs, egg yolks and vanilla. Evenly spoon into prepared ramekins. Refrigerate 1 hour (up to 1 day, covered).

Heat oven to 425 degrees F. Arrange ramekins on baking sheet. Bake 13 minutes or until edges are firm but centers are still slightly soft. (DO NOT OVERBAKE or you will ruin everything!) Cool 5 minutes on wire rack.

To serve, carefully run sharp knife around cake edges. Unmold onto serving plates. Sprinkle with confectioners' sugar, if desired.

Makes 4.

*To bake in a muffin pan, spoon batter into 8 muffin cups and refrigerate as above. When ready to bake, heat oven to 425 degrees F and fill empty muffin cups halfway with water. Bake about 9 minutes. Makes 8.

(Thanks to Heatro for the pics.)

close to magic

2009-11-21T10:37:00.007-05:00

Whew! Is it just me, or does time go by faster and faster every year? (Maybe i'm getting old.) It seems we were just vacationing in Cape Cod and eating tomato salad, but judging by the endless stream of Christmas tunes on the radio and the sparkle of twinkle lights all over the city, the holiday season--with its familiar sights and smells and sounds--is fully upon us.

This time of year always makes me think about God, or the absence of God. I haven't yet decided, and maybe never will. One thing i do believe in, and think about a lot during the holidays, is nature--the changing of seasons, the perfect balance of the universe. In these hard times, it can be challenging to stay faithful to anything, whether it's God, nature or whatever higher power you may believe in. I find cooking keeps me sane, or happy, in any case. And nothing restores my faith in nature more than making yeast bread.

Have you tried baking with yeast? A lot of people are intimidated by it, because it seems finicky and demanding (after all, yeast is a living organism). But once you get started, it's really simple to work with, and the results are truly worth it. And it's as close to magic you'll ever get in the kitchen.

These caramelized onion rolls (from the Pioneer Woman again) are easy, delicious and make your home smell like a bakery. You start with a simple, almost-no-knead yeast dough, fold in some chopped fresh herbs (I used oregano) and caramelized onions and garlic, shape into rounds and bake. Delicious!

Caramelized Onion and Oregano Rolls
adapted from the Pioneer Woman

1 Tbs. olive oil
1 large yellow onion, sliced
3 cloves garlic, minced

1-1/2 cups warm water
3 tsp. active dry yeast
1 Tbs. sugar
3 Tbs. olive oil

3 cups bread flour (I used all-purpose and it turned out fine)
2 tsp. kosher salt
freshly chopped herbs to taste (I used oregano; PW uses rosemary)
1/2 cup grated Parmesan

Saute sliced onions and minced garlic in olive oil over medium heat until brown and caramelized, about 10 min. Cool.

Pour warm water in a bowl. Sprinkle yeast on top. Add sugar and olive oil, then stir gently with a fork until combined. Set aside.

Combine flour and salt in a separate bowl.

Alternately add flour mixture, onions and herbs to yeast mixture, stirring gently until dough is combined. (It'll be sticky.)

Generously flour a flat surface. Knead dough 15 to 20 times, adding flour generously to make it easier to handle. (Keep it sticky, though!) Drizzle olive oil in a separate bowl and add the ball of dough, turning to coat. Cover with a tea towel and place in a warm spot to rise for 2 hours.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Divide dough into eight portions and form a round from each piece. Place on baking sheet and allow to rise for 20 min. Bake for 20 min. or until brown. About 5 min. before the bread is done, brush with butter and sprinkle with grated Parmesan. Serve warm or at room temperature.

c-c-c-cinnamon lips

2009-11-02T17:09:00.000-05:00

i have a bad case of nesting syndrome lately. oh, people, is it ever bad. all i want to do is sip peppermint tea, curl up on the couch with a stack of cookbooks and bake complicated, delicious treats. maybe it's the weather.

as anyone who's ever lived with me can attest, i read cookbooks like novels, and one of the newest additions to my ever-growing collection is the pioneer woman cooks by ree drummond. have you read it yet? it's funny, beautifully photographed and filled with the most indulgent recipes you can imagine. (seriously, i've never seen more butter in my life. it's amazing.) anyway, i'll forever be indebted to ms. drummond for this cinnamon bun recipe, which i made on halloween and carried around the city like some pastry-wielding trick-or-treater.

disclaimer: if you're frightened by high-calorie treats...look away.

cinnamon buns
adapted from the pioneer woman cooks

dough:
1 quart whole milk
1 cup vegetable oil
1 cup sugar
4 1/2 tsp. (2 pkgs.) active dry yeast
9 cups all-purpose flour
1 heaping tsp. baking powder
1 scant tsp. baking soda
1 Tbs. salt

filling:
3 sticks very soft butter
1/4 cup ground cinnamon
2 cups sugar
a pinch of salt, if using unsalted butter

icing:
1 lb. powdered sugar
3 Tbs. whole milk
4 Tbs. melted butter
3 Tbs. brewed coffee

For the dough, scald the milk, oil and sugar in a large saucepot over medium heat (do not boil). Set aside and cool to lukewarm, about 1 hour.

Sprinkle the yeast on top and let it sit on the milk for 1 minute. Add 8 cups of the flour; stir. (If the dough looks very liquidy, add another cup of flour.) Cover with a clean kitchen towel and set aside in a relatively warm place to rise for 1 hour.

Remove the towel and add the baking powder, baking soda, salt and the remaining cup of flour. Stir thoroughly to combine. (If not using the dough right away, you can refrigerate for up to 3 days, punching down the dough if it rises to the top of the pot.)

To assemble the rolls, remove half the dough from the pan. On a floured baking surface, roll the dough into a large rectangle, about 30x10 inches. To make the filling, pour half the softened butter over the surface of the dough, using your fingers or the back of a spoon to spread the butter evenly. Sprinkle half the cinnamon, sugar and salt (if using) over the butter.

Beginning at the long end farthest from you, roll the rectangle of dough tightly toward you into a log. When you reach the end, pinch the seam together. With a sharp knife, make 1-inch slices. One log will produce about 25 rolls. Arrange the slices in greased 9-inch cake or pie pans. Repeat the rolling/sugar/butter process with the other half of the dough. (I ended up with 8 pans of about 7 rolls each.)

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Allow the rolls to rise for about 30 minutes before baking. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, until golden brown.

While the rolls are baking, make the icing: In a bowl, whisk the powdered sugar, milk, butter and coffee until smooth. Drizzle generously over the warm rolls. As they sit, the rolls will absorb some of the icing, becoming gooier and sweeter.

Yum! This makes a LOT of cinnamon buns, so bring them to all your friends. it's the nice thing to do. and, let's face it, the only way to fit into your jeans tomorrow.

something like apple pie

2009-10-13T20:50:00.005-04:00

confession: apple butter is one of those quintessential fall things i didn't know about growing up, like tailgating and, well, football.

i discovered it my freshman year at amherst (another quintessential fall thing) when my friend caitlin's mom sent over a homemade jar of the sweet, spicy spread. it was a revelation--turning everything from whole wheat toast to saltine crackers into something like apple pie. and, as any mcdonald's employee in the tri-state area can attest, i'm a sucker for apple pie. (it's the only thing i'll order there. okay, and the chicken mcnuggets. but i digress.)

this past sunday, jon and i decided to try our hand at not only making apple butter, but canning it for use all year long. i'll spare you the nitty-gritty of the canning process (without the proper equipment, our method included aluminum foil, an espresso cup display rack and several soaking-wet kitchen towels), but i'll happily share the recipe, which is delicious.

seeing all those jars lined up in a row makes me feel so accomplished, like i'm putting away provisions for the winter. but i doubt it'll last that long, because...

confession #2: i'm eating it right now with a spoon.

sweet and chunky apple butter
adapted from The Complete Book of Year-Round Small-Batch Preserving by Ellie Topp and Margaret Howard, via epicurious.com

5 large McIntosh apples, peeled and cored
5 large Granny Smith apples, peeled and cored
1 cup apple cider
2 cups sugar
2 Tbs. lemon juice
2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp. each ground ginger and nutmeg

Cut apples into 1/2-inch dice. Combine apples and cider in a large stainless steel or enamel saucepot (a Dutch oven works great). Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat; boil gently 20 min. or until reduced by half, stirring occasionally.

Stir in sugar, lemon juice and spices. Return to a boil, reduce heat and boil gently 25 min. more or until mixture is very thick. There will still be some apple chunks remaining; stir vigorously or mash with a potato masher if you'd like a smoother consistency. Remove from heat.

Ladle into sterilized jars and process for canning, or store in an airtight container in the fridge and eat within two weeks.

Makes about 7 cups.

the last warm breath of summer

2009-09-25T20:20:00.000-04:00

a couple of weeks ago i rolled up my proverbial sleeves, made a tableful of food and had some friends over for lunch.

my friend yao was visiting from chicago, so we planned a little late-summer college reunion in my tiny, overheated apartment. kelly and chris brought my favorite crumbs cupcakes, jr regaled us with a series of head-scratching riddles (have you heard the one about the midget peglegged clown?) and the beatles played on the stereo all afternoon. it was all so lovely it makes me want to weep a little.

but i won't.

we ate the tomato salad jon and i have been devouring all summer (i've never eaten so many tomatoes in my life), a tart, garlicky mix that makes even so-so tomatoes taste divine. the calendar says it's officially autumn, but let's cling to the last warm breath of summer, shall we?

the best tomato salad
serves 3 or 4, or fewer if your name is katie

croutons:
1 baguette, cut into large bite-sized chunks
extra-virgin olive oil
Parmigiano-Reggiano

2 large beefsteak tomatoes
1 standard cucumber, peeled and seeded
1/2 red onion, thinly sliced
1 fat clove garlic, minced
3 Tbs. red wine vinegar
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbs. fresh basil leaves, torn
1 Tbs. fresh oregano
salt and pepper

For the croutons: Toss the baguette cubes with about 3 Tbs. olive oil, a generous grating of Parmigiano-Reggiano and plenty of salt and pepper. Bake at 375 degrees F for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until browned and crisp around the edges.

Meanwhile, cut the tomatoes into thin wedges, about 10 per tomato. Dice the cucumber into bite-sized chunks. Sprinkle the vegetables with salt and place in a strainer over a bowl or the sink at least 10 minutes to drain.

In a small bowl, combine the vinegar, olive oil, red onion and garlic. Season with salt and pepper.

When the tomatoes and cucumbers have released a lot of liquid, transfer to a large serving bowl and toss with the dressing. Add the herbs and croutons and toss again to combine.

For an extra salty flavor, stir in a handful of black oil-cured olives or small cubes of Asiago cheese.

pure genius

2009-09-02T20:28:00.000-04:00

do you like lime?

i love lime. though some (like my sister) would think me crazy, i'd take some rich, citrus-infused butter cookies over a chocolate chipper any day. especially if they're sandwiched with a simple, sweet lime icing.

the secret to these cookies' delicate flavor is dorie greenspan's method of rubbing lime zest into the sugar until it becomes aromatic and flavorful, perfumed with the essence of citrus. pure genius!

lime sables
adapted from baking: from my home to yours (dorie greenspan)

2 sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/2 cup sugar, mixed with the zest of 2 limes
1/4 cup confectioners' sugar, sifted
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 large egg yolks, at room temperature
2 cups all-purpose flour

Beat the butter until smooth and creamy. Add the sugars and salt and beat until well blended. The mixture should be smooth and velvety, not fluffy and airy. Beat in the egg yolks, again beating until the mixture is homogenous.

Mix in the flour mixture just until combined and the dough looks uniformly moist. The dough will not clean the sides of the bowl, nor will it come together in a ball--and it shouldn't. You want to work the dough as little as possible. What you're aiming for is a soft, moist, clumpy (rather than smooth) dough. Pinch it, and it will feel a little like Play-Doh.

Scrape the dough out onto a smooth work surface, gather it into a ball and divide it in half. Shape each piece into a smooth log about 9 inches long. Wrap the logs in plastic and refrigerate for at least 3 hours. (Alternatively, roll out into a 1/4-inch-thick sheet and cut out shapes with cookie cutters after chilling.)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Remove a log of dough from the fridge and slice into 1/4-inch-thick rounds. Bake for 17 to 20 minutes, until the cookies are light brown on the bottom, lightly golden around the edges and pale on top. Cool for a minute or two on the sheet before lifting them onto a rack.

To make cookie sandwiches, mix 1/2 cup confectioners' sugar with enough lime juice to make a spreadable icing. Spread on cookies and sandwich together. Makes about 40 cookies, or 20 sandwiches.

ring ring ring

2009-08-18T23:51:00.000-04:00

...banana phone!

how are you today, friends? i've just returned from a lovely long weekend on cape cod, and i must say--swimming and sunning are nice (sun rash and tan lines notwithstanding), but i'm glad to be back in brooklyn. yeah, the apartment is steamy-hot, and the stove is too small, and the motorcyclists from nelson's hawg house down the street keep zooming noisily by our window...but it's home.

this banana cake is something like coming home. it's not fancy or particularly beautiful, and maybe it's a little too brown around the edges, but it's cozy and perfect in its own way. and couldn't we all use a little of that now?

classic banana bundt cake
baking: from my home to yours (dorie greenspan)

3 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 sticks (8 oz.) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 cups sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla
2 large eggs
about 4 very ripe bananas, mashed
1 cup sour cream or plain yogurt

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Generously butter a 9- to 10-inch (12-cup) Bundt pan.

Whisk the flour, baking soda and salt together.

Beat the butter until creamy. Add the sugar and beat until pale and fluffy. Beat in the vanilla, then add the eggs one at a time, beating for about 1 minute after each egg goes in. Mix in the bananas. Finally, mix in half the dry ingredients (don't be disturbed when the batter curdles), all the sour cream and then the rest of the flour mixture. Scrape the batter into the pan, rap the pan on the counter to de-bubble the batter and smooth the top.

Bake for 65 to 75 minutes, or until a thin knife inserted deep into the center of the cake comes out clean. Check the cake after about 30 minutes--if it is browning too quickly, cover it loosely with a foil tent. Transfer the cake to a rack and cool for 10 minutes before unmolding onto the rack to cool to room temperature.

Makes 14 thick, comforting slices. (yes, it's a big cake, but it'll stay moist and flavorful for up to 5 days. and if it gets a little dry, you can toast it!)

summer bouquet

2009-07-26T14:26:00.002-04:00

things i once believed were true:

1. telling my junior high crush i liked him wouldn't totally freak him out.
2. if i slunk down low enough in my chair, i wouldn't be called on in 3rd grade math. or ap biology. or all of my college french classes.
3. she's all that was an awesome movie. (that's the one with freddie prinze, jr. yeah.)
4. i couldn't make french fries. cutting up all those potatoes, soaking them for half an hour, then double-frying them? not worth the trouble, when i could just get them delivered from the local diner.

well, it turns out you don't have to soak or double-fry (you do still have to cut them up, unfortunately), and you'll end up with the crispiest, most delicious fries you've ever had. believe it.

the easiest french fries ever
adapted from cook's illustrated, july/august 2009

4 yukon gold potatoes (this is very important)
vegetable oil
kosher salt

cut the potatoes into 1/4" matchsticks and place in a dutch oven. add enough oil to just cover, about 6 cups (cook's recommends peanut oil; i used canola and it was fine). bring to a rolling boil, about 5 minutes. cook 15 minutes more; stir gently with tongs to keep the fries from sticking to each other. cook 15 minutes longer, or until the potatoes are golden brown and crisp, stirring occasionally. remove with a spider or slotted spoon and drain on paper towels before serving.

for a delicious, oniony dipping sauce, stir together sour cream, a spoonful of mayonnaise, 2 minced garlic cloves and some chopped chives.

add some iced green tea, a bottle of côtes du rhône and a beautiful summer bouquet, and you've got a perfect evening. happy weekend!

exactly what you want to eat

2009-07-11T09:33:00.007-04:00

once, during my crazy college days (not exactly a nutritionally sound time, i admit), i went to kfc with some friends and ate three biscuits. true story. another true story: this occurred not thirty minutes after a visit to the cardiologist. hey, at least i skipped the boneless honey bbq wings.

i have a thing for biscuits: buttery, flaky, hot-out-of-the-oven biscuits. this version has crispy, cheesy edges and a middle that's tender enough to take a nap in, with a salty but not overwhelming oniony flavor. it's exactly what you want to eat for breakfast. or second breakfast, lunch, dinner, afternoon tea. you get the idea.

cheddar & chive buttermilk biscuits
an old issue of fine cooking

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1 stick cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes
1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh chives
3 oz. sharp cheddar, grated or finely chopped
2/3 cup buttermilk

Heat oven to 375 degrees F. In a large bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt until blended. With a pastry blender or two table knives, cut the butter into the flour mixture until it looks a little like cornmeal, with some butter chunks the size of peas. Stir in the chives and grated cheese. Add the buttermilk and stir with a wooden spoon until the dough is wet, sticky and shaggy (some dry spots are okay). Turn the dough out onto a cutting board and knead about 12 times until the dough comes together and is smooth. Add a little flour to the board. Pat the dough into a 1-inch-thick square; cut into 9 biscuits. bake on a parchment paper- or foil-lined baking sheet until firm and light golden brown, about 18 to 23 min.

stepford-wife style

2009-06-20T15:47:00.000-04:00

last saturday afternoon it was gloomy and cold (did you know tomorrow is the first day of summer? i sure didn't), so i decided to surprise jon when he came home from work, stepford-wife style: with a cheese board and some champagne cocktails.

this strawberry-prosecco concoction is the essence of warm breezes and blue skies. almost enough to make it feel like spring.

the strawberry muddle
adapted from bon appetit, july 2009

(makes 6)

1 1/2 cups chopped hulled strawberries
6 tbsp. agave nectar or simple syrup
6 thin lemon slices
ice cubes
1 750-ml bottle chilled prosecco

divide strawberries among six glasses; add 1 tbsp. agave to each and mash with a spoon. add lemon slice to each and mash to release juice. add several ice cubes to each glass, then fill with prosecco. cheers!

a little mood lift

2009-06-09T22:52:00.000-04:00

a few weeks ago jon and i welcomed summer with a beer and some barbecue chicken sandwiches. it appears we were a little hasty pulling out the brooklyn summer ale, as it's been rainy and gross in new york ever since. [case in point: i'm about to drown my sorrows and my sniffly nose in a bowl of instant ramen.] and if the gloomy faces of my fellow commuters are any indication, i think it's time for a little mood lift.

this cake, which i found in the wonderful june issue of gourmet, isn't a fancy dessert. it's kind of flat and squishy and plain, the kind of cake you can whip up in ten minutes with two bowls and a wooden spoon. but when you bite into one of the luscious, juicy raspberries, it's exactly what you were looking for. try it, you'll see.

raspberry buttermilk cake
gourmet, june 2009

1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/4 tsp. salt
1/2 stick unsalted butter, softened
2/3 cup plus 1 1/2 tbsp. sugar, divided
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 large egg
1/2 cup buttermilk (i used 1/2 cup regular milk with a squeeze of lemon juice)
1 cup fresh raspberries (about 1 small carton)

preheat oven to 400 degrees F. butter and flour a 9-inch round cake pan.

whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. in separate bowl, beat butter and 2/3 cup sugar until fluffy, about 2 min., then beat in vanilla and egg. stir in the flour mixture in 3 batches, alternating with the buttermilk, beginning and ending with the flour. mix until just combined. spoon batter into cake pan. scatter berries evenly over the top, then sprinkle with the remaining 1 1/2 tbsp. sugar.

bake 25 to 30 min., or until cake is golden and a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.

slightly questionable

2009-05-29T01:18:00.000-04:00

honey-barbecue boneless chicken wings. spinach calzones dipped in marinara sauce. cool ranch doritos. any kind of potato chip, by the bagful. i can get on board with lots of slightly questionable frat-boy food, but for some reason, i can't stomach cold pizza. something about the translucent congealed cheese, i think. now, cold korean pancakes, on the other hand, i'll gladly wolf down (preferably leaning against the fridge door, illuminated by the eerie glow).

they're even better hot, of course. when my mom makes these seafood- and zucchini-filled pancakes, everyone (okay, just me) crowds around the stove, waiting for the first mouth-searing bite.

i can't say these are as good as my mom's, but nothing ever is, is it? i think these are close, though.

korean pancakes

2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups water
1/4 tsp. baking powder
2 large eggs
salt and pepper
2 small zucchini, julienned
4 scallions, sliced lengthwise and cut into 2-inch pieces
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 lb. shrimp, cooked and chopped
canola oil for frying

whisk together flour, water, baking powder, eggs and salt and pepper to taste. thin batter with a little more water if desired. stir in zucchini, scallions, garlic and shrimp. heat a thin layer of canola oil in a large skillet. drop pancake batter by 1/4 cup in skillet; quickly spread out to make as thin as possible. fry 2 min. on each side, pressing down with spatula to compress, or until golden brown and crisp.

dipping sauce: combine 2 tbsp. soy sauce, 2 tsp. seasoned rice vinegar and a few grinds black pepper in a small dish.

oh hi, summer

2009-05-21T01:08:00.001-04:00

it's about time. just sayin'.

emergency quiche

2009-05-13T21:53:00.000-04:00

i know it's 70 degrees and may and all, and i should be eating fresh salads and strawberries--not caramelized onions and frozen spinach and...(gulp)...heavy cream. especially since i just ordered a tiny green bikini from j.crew. but tonight just wasn't the night.

i made a tuna salad for lunch last night, tucked it in the fridge and promptly left for work without it this morning. after a long day of nothing but saltines and peanut butter, i came home ravenous...only to find this.

sad, no?

so, inspired by the lovely joy the baker , i grabbed some eggs and a carton of cream left over from mother's day and made a crustless quiche.

and you know what? it was damn good. just the thing to bring for lunch tomorrow, if i can remember.

emergency quiche
adapted from joy the baker

1 large onion, thinly sliced
1 tbsp. butter
1 10-oz. box frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed out
1/2 cup cheddar cheese, shredded or small-diced
3 extra-large eggs
1 cup heavy cream (all right, i guess you can use milk..)
salt
pepper
nutmeg
cayenne pepper

heat oven to 375 degrees F. saute onion in butter over medium heat 10 min., or until golden brown. arrange onion, spinach and cheese in greased 9" pie plate. in bowl, whisk together eggs and cream; season with a pinch each of salt, pepper, nutmeg and cayenne. pour custard over vegetables in pie plate. bake in preheated oven 35 min.

shiny and new

2009-05-08T23:35:00.000-04:00

hello?

if you're there, lovely reader, welcome to my shiny new blog. here is where i'll document my adventures and (let's face it) mishaps in the kitchen, and life in general.

well, that's that. and now...pizza.

jon and i made pizza yesterday. two delicious pizzas, to be exact.

it was the kind of meal that induces food comas (and did, in the case of one unnamed individual).

jon made olive oil dough from the life-changing artisan bread in 5 minutes a day and it came out perfect, crispy and chewy.

yes. pizza.

olive oil dough
adapted from artisan bread in 5 minutes a day

1-1/2 cups lukewarm water
3/4 tbsp. granulated yeast
3/4 tbsp. kosher salt
1/2 tbsp. sugar
2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
3-1/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

mix the yeast, salt, sugar and olive oil with the water in a large bowl. use a spoon to stir in the flour until no dry spots remain. cover and let rest at room temperature about 2 hours. shape and bake immediately, or refrigerate in a lidded container for up to 12 days.

to make pizza, shape dough into two 1/8-inch-thick rounds. top with desired toppings and bake at 500 degrees F about 10 minutes.